Pantone Spring 2017

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“Reminiscent of the hues that surround us in nature, our Spring 2017 Fashion Color Report evokes a spectrum of emotion and feeling. From the warmth of sunny days with PANTONE 13-0755 Primrose Yellow to the invigorating feeling of breathing fresh mountain air with PANTONE 18-0107 Kale and the desire to escape to pristine waters with PANTONE 14-4620 Island Paradise, designers applied color in playful, yet thoughtful and precise combinations to fully capture the promises, hope and transformation that we yearn for each Spring.” - Leatrice Eiseman, Executive Director of the Pantone Color Institute

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PANTONE 17-4123 Niagara
"Comfortable and dependable, Niagara leads the PANTONE Fashion Color Report as the most prevalent color for spring 2017. Niagara is a classic denim-like blue that speaks to our desire for ease and relaxation." 
Labradorite
Labradorite is a member of the plagioclase feldspar group. The stone was named after its place of discovery in Labrador, Canada. It has since been found in other places, including Finland, Norway, Madagascar, and Australia. The official term for the iridescent optical effect exhibited by labradorite, is "labradorescence". 

PANTONE 13-0755 Primrose Yellow
"By contrast, Primrose Yellow sparkles with heat and vitality. Inviting us into its instant warmth, this joyful yellow shade takes us to a destination marked by enthusiasm, good cheer and sunny days."
Yellow Apatite
This Golden Yellow Apatite originates from Madagascar. Apatite is a very common mineral however transparent gemstone-quality apatite is extremely rare and is not often found in jewelry stores. Apatite occurs in such a wide variety of attractive colors and forms, and has become a favorite among gemstone collectors. 

PANTONE 19-4045 Lapis Blue
"Conveying even more energy is Lapis Blue. Strong and confident, this intense blue shade is imbued with an inner radiance."
Lapis Lazuli
Lapis lazuli has been used as a gemstone for thousands of years. It has been mined from Afghanistan since the early 7th millennium BC. Lapis is technically defined as a rock rather than a mineral. It is primarily composed of lazurite with varying amounts of sodalite, calcite, pyrite and other various minor constituents. This variation causes the color variations in lapis. 

PANTONE 17-1462 Flame
"A red-based orange, Flame, is gregarious and fun loving. Flamboyant and vivacious, this wonderfully theatrical shade adds fiery heat to the spring 2017 palette."
Fire Opal
This Orange Fire Opal originates from Mexico. Fire opal is a gem-quality form of amorphous hydrated silicon dioxide with no crystalline structure. Like other opal, three to ten percent of the weight of fire opal is water. The name 'fire opal' is derived from its 'fiery' orange color, though it can also be white or brown. Fire opal that exhibits no play of color is sometimes referred to as jelly opal.

PANTONE 14-4620 Island Paradise
"Island Paradise is a refreshing aqua that calls to mind a change of scenery. A cool blue green shade that speaks to our dream of the great escape, Island Paradise is emblematic of tropical settings and our desire to unwind."
Aquamarine
This Light Blue Aquamarine originates from Mozambique. Aquamarine is a blue to green-blue variety of precious beryl. (The beryl group of minerals is most famous for green emerald.) Aquamarine is one of the official birthstones for those born in March. aquamarine can be light-blue, dark-blue, blue-green and green-blue. The more saturated the color, the higher the value, although almost all aquamarine is typically a lighter blue tone.

PANTONE 13-1404 Pale Dogwood
"Continuing the tranquil mood, Pale Dogwood is a quiet and peaceful pink shade that engenders an aura of innocence and purity. The unobtrusive Pale Dogwood is a subtle pink whose soft touch infuses a healthy glow."
Morganite
This Light Pink Morganite originates from Afghanistan. Morganite is the light pink to violet-pink variety of beryl. Morganite was first identified in Madagascar, in 1910. It's name was bestowed by George D. Kunz, a famous American gemologist and buyer for Tiffany & Company who named it in honor of John Pierpont (J.P.) Morgan, an American banker and avid gemstone collector.

PANTONE 15-0343 Greenery
"Bringing forth a refreshing take, Greenery is a tangy yellow-green that speaks to our need to explore, experiment and reinvent. Illustrative of flourishing foliage, the fertile attributes of Greenery signals one to take a deep breath, oxygenate and reinvigorate."
Peridot
This Green Peridot originates from China. Peridot is a gem-quality variety of the mineral olivine and you may see it referred to as "olivine" in older texts or in reference to vintage jewelry pieces. Peridot is one of the few gemstones that comes in a single color, green. The green may vary from yellow-green to olive to brownish green. The depth of the green color is dependent on the level of iron content in the stone's chemistry.

PANTONE 17-2034 Pink Yarrow
"Tropical and festive, Pink Yarrow is a whimsical, unignorable hue that tempts and tantalizes. Bold, attention getting and tempestuous, the lively Pink Yarrow is a captivating and stimulating color that lifts spirits and gets the adrenaline going."
Pink Tourmaline
This Pink Tourmaline originates from Mozambique. Tourmaline gemstones is found in all colors of the rainbow. The name tourmaline comes from the word toramalli, which means “mixed gems” in Sinhalese (a language of Sri Lanka). For more on tourmaline please click here.

PANTONE 18-0107 Kale
"Evocative of the great outdoors and a healthy lifestyle, Kale is another foliage-based green that conjures up our desire to connect to nature, similar to the more vivacious Greenery. And, just as we see in nature, this lush and fertile natural green shade provides the perfect complementary background to the more vibrant tones in the palette."
Serpentine
This Green Serpentine originates from Afghanistan. Serpentine's name is thought to be derived from its serpent-like green colors. The stone is usually green, yellowish-green, or brownish-green in color. 

PANTONE 14-1315 Hazelnut
"Rounding out the spring 2017 colors is Hazelnut, a key neutral for spring. This shade brings to mind a natural earthiness. Unpretentious and with an inherent warmth, Hazelnut is a transitional color that effortlessly connects the seasons."
Rutilated Quartz
This Rutile Quartz originates from India. Rutilated quartz is clear or smoky quartz with inclusions of rutile crystals. Rutile is the mineral name for natural crystals of titanium dioxide.

 

For more information on the color palette please visit https://www.pantone.com
For more information on the gemstones shown or to purchase them please visit http://www.gemselect.com

Web of Light

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It is the perfect time of year for Paul Morelli to have release his gorgeous "Web of Light" jewelry. Like the webs created by the industrious spider Morelli's designs are intricate and delicate, with less creep factor and more wow factor. 

"When spider webs unite, each is an intricate strand in the web of life."

 


For more on Paul Morelli see my July Newsletter

Pantone's Fall 2016 Colors

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Pantone's Fall 2016 color campaign is entitled: A Unity of Strength, Confidence and Complexity. Leatrice Eiseman Executive Director of the Pantone Color Institute™ has this to say about the palette:

"The desire for tranquility, strength, and optimism have inspired a Fall 2016 color palette that is led by the Blue family.
Along with anchoring earth tones, exuberant pops of vibrant colors also appear throughout the collections. Transcending gender, these unexpectedly vivacious colors in our Fall 2016 palette act as playful but structured departures from your more typical fall shades.
Blue skies represent constancy as they are always above us. Grays give a feeling of stability, Red tones invite confidence and warmth, while the hot Pinkish Purples and Spicy Mustard Yellows suggest a touch of the exotic."

I am a big fan of this palette. I feel like the colors really embrace the variety of moods that embody the autumn season. Warm plays with cool and muted neutrals contrast against vibrant brights. I was once again inspired to put together a list of gemstones that I think are great representatives of this palette. So get into your cozy sweater, pour yourself a warm drink and enjoy.
(Click for the Spring 2016 Pantone Gemstone List) 

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"Earmarking the importance of Blue in the palette, the new blue shade of PANTONE 17­-4028 Riverside undeniably takes precedence in the fall collections. Cool and calming, strong and stable [Riverside] displays a subtle vibrancy and sophistication. The color borders on exciting, yet maintains a sense of constancy"

When I saw this color I immediately thought of a bright sapphire that borders on cornflower blue.  For a slightly less expensive option I went with a nice denim colored Lapis Lazuli. 

"Pantone 14-4122 Airy Blue’s lofty nature evokes feelings of lightness and freedom. Designers seeking weightlessness in a world heavy with conflict." 

This beautiful soft color immediately called to mind blue topaz, however I also thought of a much less well known stone; Blue Larimar. Larimar is a trade name for the blue, gem-quality variety of a mineral called pectolite. Pectolite commonly occurs in gray tones and is not especially rare occurring in many locations around the world.
Blue Larimar is found only in one location in the entire world - the Dominican Republic. Blue Larimar is a hydrated sodium calcium silicate with manganese. Its blue color is due to calcium being replaced by copper impurities. Larimar is also often mixed with other materials such as calcite and hematite. Its color can vary from white to light-blue, and from medium sky to volcanic gray blue.

sharkskin

"There’s an edge to PANTONE 17-3914 Sharkskin, and yet it manages to remain neutral. [The color is] pair-able with almost any fall color, bright or muted [as it is a] color that the rest of the palette can rest on" 

If you read my article on Fall stones last year (read it here) you'll know that I am a huge fan of gray tones for fall. It's a moody color that can be either warm or cool. It can be worn on it's own as well as being a perfect neutral that plays well with virtually every other color. 

I wanted to give this fantastic neutral it's due so I have chosen three very different stones. The first is agate with swirling grays, creams, and charcoals. The second is cultured South Sea silver/grey pearl. The metallic look can add a bit of drama, and pearls come in many different sizes and qualities. The third option is a bit different. I chose a grey tourmaline because it has a beautiful watery look that can easily be used in either a dressed up or everyday jewelry piece. 

red

"In contrast to the stable backbone of the Fall 2016 palette, PANTONE 18-1550 Aurora Red adds a welcome punch. A bold Red that is warm, sensual and immediately pleasing to the eye [and] gets the metaphorical blood of the palette pumping. [The color is] exciting and dynamic, [and] breeds unmistakable confidence."

This red color really punches up the fall palette and made me think of maple tree leaves bursting into flames of color. Again I chose three gemstones that I think will add a little pizzazz.

The first is a red toned fire opal. This non-phenomenal version of opal often gives the appearance of having an internal glow, like the embers of a fire on a cold night. Red spinel has been gaining more attention in the recent years. In June of this year the stone was in the headlines when it was decided that it was to be August 's newest birthstone.  My third choice is Red Pyrope Garnet,  basically I see this stone as a slightly less expensive version of spinel. It has much of the same character and can be just as vibrant, but with less of a dent put in the pocketbook. 

taupe

"PANTONE 16-1318 Warm Taupe is a hearty, pleasing and approachable neutral that pairs well with each of the top 10 shades of the Fall 2016 season. [Warm Taupe] suggests reassurance and stability. [It is a color that is] trusted, organic and grounded]."

Taupe is one of those timeless colors. It will warm up a cool fall day. The first stone that I chose has a slightly more golden undertone. Moonstone is a soft looking stone that pairs well with cozy looks. Smoky quartz has a lovely warm tea like color, and with a relatively low price point you can easily go big with this gemstone. The slightly more unusual choice is fossilized coral. The lovely pattern is intriguing and adds interest without needing a lot of embellishment.

cedar

"Like Airy Blue, PANTONE 18-1630 Dusty Cedar gives a nod to the PANTONE Color of the Year 2016, Rose Quartz.
[Dusty Cedar is] a fall and winter version of the Pinks we’re used to seeing in spring. [It is a] dustier rose-toned Pink shade with some complexity [that] exudes warmth and welcome."

This dusty rose has a wonderfully old fashioned feel to is. I chose stones that maybe aren't as well known in the jewelry world. The first is a stone with a little bit of interesting controversy surrounding it. 

Andesine-Labradorite/Red Feldspar: "Andesine-labradorite" came onto the gem scene in 2003, so it is a relative newcomer. It is typically a reddish orange color, along with traces of green and yellow with a faint metallic luster known as labradorescence. The problem with andesine-labradorite is that it was originally sold without disclosing it's true origins and that it was color enhanced. The gemstone was presented as being from South America's Andes Mountains (hence the name 'andesine'). Later it was discovered that it was not actually a new mineral called 'andesine', but actually color-enhanced 'labradorite'. The name 'andesine' was very misleading. In an attempt to correct the problem, 'andesine' was later hyphenated to 'andesine-labradorite'. The trade name is widely used, but it is also referred to as just 'andesine', 'red labradorite', 'Congo sunstone', and 'red feldspar'.

The second stone that I chose is not controversial, but it is also a relative newcomer. Rhodochrosite was first described in 1813, but wasn't introduced to the market until around 1940. It was named the state mineral of Colorado in 2002. Rhodochrostie is a softer stone and you will usually see it carved, made into beads, or cut into a cabochon.

green

"PANTONE 18-5845 Lush Meadow brings to mind fresh botanicals and foliage. [It is evocative of] rich and elegant, vibrant and sophisticated. This shade displays a brightness, panache and depth of color that elevates it from more natural greens [adding even more] elegance woven through this season’s collections."

My immediate thought when I saw this color was malachite. It's rich green tones are perfectly lush and full of life. Malachite is frequently cut into large stones and beads so don't be afraid to go big with a statement piece! The second stone that I chose is a classic green tourmaline. It is a stone that is easy to find and even a small tourmaline will create a pleasing pop of color. The reason that I chose tourmaline over emerald is essentially for the reason that is a more affordable stone in this color, though if price is no concern then emerald would also be a lovely representative!

mustard

"PANTONE 14-0952 Spicy Mustard is an exotic addition that bounces elegantly off other colors in the palette. [It] adds another splash of uplifting vibrancy; a spicier, zestier Yellow than previous seasons"

I am absolutely envious of anyone that can wear mustard colored clothing (a color that looks awful on me)! On the bright side you don't have to be able to wear mustard well to indulge in these spice inspired gemstones!  I've gone with an inviting golden beryl as my first choice. Second up is the more unusual rutilated quartz which contains beautiful (often golden) rutile needles. Rutilated quartz is one of the few gemstones desirable because of its inclusions! My third choice is a vibrant sapphire. The yellow-orange color will really stand out on a gray day. 

potters

"PANTONE 18-1340 Potter’s Clay has an added degree of sophistication and layering. [It possesses] elements of russet. Orange in its undertones, gives a grounded feeling that’s anything but flat. [It is a] neutral earth tone; expected for fall and winter palette [possessing] real substance; a strong foundation."

One of my favorite gemstones leads the charge in this color. Hessonite garnet is a wonderful choice to bring in the warm tone for fall. In fact this member of the grossularite garnet group has earned it the nickname cinnamon stone. Hessonite also has one of my favorite observable internal characteristics. When viewed under magnification the stone exhibits a "scotch-in-water" or "heat wave" effect cause by tiny included crystals crowded together to create a swirling effect. For those of you that are in the go big or go home category I would suggest carnelian agate. The stone still has the warm cinnamon tone but with less cost and larger sizes.  

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"PANTONE 17-3240 Bodacious speaks to the gender fluidity we continue to see. [Bodacious] lends itself to vibrant color combinations [that are] unexpected in fall. [The color is] versatile; can be used with Pinks and Reds. [The] bright, rich Purple, with hints of a more sophisticated Pink."

This bright fun color can bring a smile to your face and a bounce to your step! The first gemstone I chose is rhodolite garnet.  Rhodolite is a mix of pyrope and almandine garnet. It gets its name from the Greek word, "rhodon", meaning "rose colored". The second stone that I chose is cheerful bright pink sapphire. This flirty color will get you through the gloomy days for sure!

For more information on Pantone's Fall 2016 Palette please visit their website. Stone images courtesy of GemSelect

Happy Birthday Tiffany & Co.

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tiffanylogo

On this day in 1837, Tiffany and Co. was founded by Charles Lewis Tiffany. In honor of this American jewelry icon I thought we would celebrate with a few beautiful pieces that are part of the MET museum's (Metropolitan Museum of Art) collection in New York. 

Tiffany & Co. (1837–present) ca. 1890. Made in New York, New York, United States. Gold, diamond, and enamel. Photo courtesy of the MET Museum.

"Related to the extraordinary enameled orchids displayed by Tiffany & Company at the 1889 Exposition Universelle in Paris, this flower pin with a textured gold stem and diamond-set leaves is enhanced by a single diamond dewdrop set amid the realistically rendered purple enamel petals. The gentle arc of its stem and the naturalistic blossom reflect the Art Nouveau style, which inspired jewelers toward the end of the century. The enameled orchids were designed by Paulding Farnham (1859–1927) and were exhibited at Tiffany's New York showroom prior to their departure for Paris. The New York Sun reported on March 17, 1889, that the jewels attracted more attention "than any flower show, display of orchids, or any other of nature's beauty ever brought together in this city."

Louis Comfort Tiffany (American, New York 1848–1933 New York). ca. 1904. Gold, silver, platinum, black opals, boulder opals, demantoid garnets, rubies, enamel. Photo courtesy of the MET Museum.

 

"After Charles Lewis Tiffany, founder of Tiffany & Company, died in 1902, his son Louis Tiffany was able to pursue artistic jewelry without reticence. He began working on this pursuit in 1902 to prepare himself for the St. Louis fair of 1904, where he exhibited twenty-seven pieces of jewelry. Tiffany Furnaces initially produced the jewelry, but after 1907 Tiffany & Company acquired Louis's artistic jewelry department. This hair ornament is one of the most extraordinary pieces of Tiffany's surviving jewelry, incorporating a remarkably realistic rendering of two dragonflies resting on two dandelion seedballs. Tiffany designed the hair ornament for Louisine W. Havemeyer, who, with her husband Henry Osborne Havemeyer were among Tiffany's most enlightened and devoted patrons. The hair ornament was known only from archival photographs in the collection of the Tiffany & Company Archives until Louisine's great-granddaughter brought it to the Museum's attention. The piece epitomizes his earliest jewelry designs, which were based directly on modest forms in nature, such as field flowers and wild fruit, as well as his affinity for enameling and semiprecious stones with unusual colors. The dragonflies rest on dandelion seedballs, one of which is shown partially blown away, underscoring the fragility of nature. Highly skilled artisans conveyed the transparency of the insects' wings through delicate metalwork filigree. The temporal quality is revealed in the subject: dragonflies rest in one place for mere seconds before flitting away; dandelions disperse into thousands of airborne seeds with the gentlest of breezes."

Louis Comfort Tiffany (American, New York 1848–1933 New York)
Date: ca. 1904. Opals, gold, enamel. Photo Courtesy of the MET Museum.

"This necklace, composed of grape clusters and leaves, is one of the earliest known examples of jewelry designed by Louis Comfort Tiffany. Tiny black opals represent the clusters of fruit, and finely executed enameling in shades of green on gold forms the delicate leaves. Opals appealed to Tiffany for their fiery glow, reminiscent of his vases in Favrile glass. The asymmetry of the design and its organic shapes are entirely in keeping with his passion for natural forms. This necklace was among the twenty-seven pieces that Tiffany made for the Louisiana Purchase Exposition in Saint Louis in 1904. It has been altered twice since its original conception, first by the addition of grape clusters on either side of the central pendant and later by the addition of a double bar-link chain. These changes were probably overseen by Tiffany himself, who is believed to have presented the necklace to his nurse and later companion, Sarah E. Hanley."

The MET Museum

Queen Elizabeth II's Birthday Jewelry

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June 10, 2016

Queen Elizabeth’s official 90th birthday celebration weekend started today and the royal lady herself wore a sunny primrose yellow Angela Kelly outfit paired with the stunning Richmond Brooch, which belonged to her grandmother, Queen Mary.
The Richmond brooch (by Hunt and Roskell) was a present from the town of Richmond on the occasion of Queen Mary’s 1893 wedding to the future King George V. The large brooch features diamonds set in a silver and gold scrolling design with a central pearl, with a pearl and diamond pendant. The pearl and diamond pendant is detachable making the brooch very versatile. Other pendants could be added, the brooch itself could also be used as a pendant or even as a hair decoration. Queen Elizabeth inherited the brooch when Queen Mary died, in 1953. 

June 11, 2016

How do you stand out among a sea of red? In neon green of course! Queen Elizabeth is quite fetching in her vibrant Stewart Parvin coat and Rachel Trevor-Morgan hat. 

The Queen also wore a brooch known as the Brigade of Guards Brooch or the Guards’ Badge. The badge combines the symbols of the Grenadier Guards, the Coldstream Guards, the Welsh Guards, the Irish Guards, and the Scots Guards. It features diamonds topped by a crown and the symbols are surrounded by an oval frame with the words QUINQUE JUNCTA IN UNO: “five joined as one”.

The brooch was originally created for the Queen’s grandmother Queen Mary. The brooch is worn annually at the “Trooping the Colour” (a parade to celebrate the sovereign’s birthday). Queen Elizabeth’s actual birthday is on April 21st, but she follows the tradition started in the 1900’s of celebrating it on a Saturday in June when the weather is fairer.

June 12, 2016

Queen Elizabeth’s brooch choice for today’s birthday festivities packs some historical punch. 
Queen Victoria’s Bow Brooch: 

Queen Elizabeth II at her 90th birthday celebration, one of Queen Victoria’s bow brooches, Queen Alexander with bows down her skirt, Queen Mary with bows as a makeshift stomacher, The Queen Mother with a single bow

The brooch is part of a set of three brooches (two large brooches and a slightly smaller brooch) that were commissioned by Queen Victoria from Garrard. They are constructed from 506 diamonds that she provided. These bows are among the jewels that Victoria willed to the crown for future royal use; they’ve passed from queen to queen. 

Queen Alexandra and Queen Mary can be seen wearing the set in photographs. They were known to also hang other jewels from the brooches adding to the sparkle. Queen Elizabeth (the future Queen Mother) wore them singularly in a modest fashion that was in keeping with the times. 

Today Queen Elizabeth follows her mothers example and wears just one at a time in a normal lapel brooch position.

Pantone's Spring 2016 Colors

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After a long and dismal winter it is exciting to see signs of Spring and one of those signs is the return of color. 
In their release statement Panatone says that their Spring color palatte, "Spring 2016: A Transporting and Transformative Canvas", contains  colors that "transcend cultural and gender norms. Vivid brights give way to excitement and optimism, though quiet stability prevails in this season’s palette. For Spring 2016 there are truly no perceivable distinctions in color choices between the men’s and women’s collections, both of which focus on a desire to breathe and reflect, then play."  

When I see color my mind immediately turns to gemstones (hazard of the job), so today I wanted to interpret the amazing mix of uncommon neutrals and vivid brights into gemstones. Some are obvious and some are not so. I had fun playing with color and I hope you do too!

ROSE QUARTZ: "Rose Quartz, a persuasive yet gentle tone that conveys compassion and a sense of composure. Like a serene sunset, flushed cheek or budding flower, Rose Quartz reminds us to reflect on our surroundings during the busy but lighthearted spring and summer months."
For this color the most obvious choice was the best choice. Rose or pink quartz is just what the name says, a pink variety of quartz. The muted pinks are a perfect way to usher in Spring. 

rosequartzpantone

PEACH ECHO and MALAY GARNET: "The fashion and design communities, and consequently, consumers, have been in love with orange for several seasons. Coming to the fore this Spring is, Peach Echo, a shade that emanates friendlier qualities, evoking warmth and accessibility. It is an all-encompassing, tempered companion in the playful orange family."
Malaya (malaia) garnet is one of the rarer and more interesting 'hybrid' varieties of garnet. It is primarily a mix of pyrope and spessartine, which was first discovered in the 1960s. The term "malaya" was derived from a Swahili word meaning 'outcast'. Miners gave it this name because when it was first discovered, local dealers wouldn't buy it, simply because it didn't fall into any of the standard garnet categories and it was cast aside! This is an absolute shame because the pinkish-orange colors of the stone are simply stunning. 

peachecho

SERENITY and SAPPHIRE: "Weightless and airy, like the expanse of the blue sky above us, Serenity comforts with a calming effect, bringing a feeling of respite even in turbulent times. A transcendent blue, Serenity provides us with a naturally connected sense of space."
Considered one of "the big 4" in the gemstone world, sapphires are available in every color of the rainbow excluding red (red is ruby). The perfect compliment to Serenity is a cornflower blue sapphire. It exudes calm but also provides a nice pop of color. 

SNORKEL and LAPIS LAZULI: "A maritime-inspired blue, Snorkel Blue plays in the navy family, but with a happier, more energetic context. The name alone implies a relaxing vacation and encourages escape. It is striking yet still, with lots of activity bursting from its undertones."
Lapis Lazuli (often called just 'lapis'), has been used as a gemstone for thousands of years. It has been mined from Afghanistan since the early 7th millennium BC. It was discovered in ancient burial sites throughout the Caucasus, the Mehrgarh and even as far as the Republic of Mauritania. The funeral mask for the ancient Egyptian pharaoh 'King Tut' was also decorated with lapis lazuli! 

snorkel

BUTTERCUP and LEMON QUARTZ: "With Buttercup designers reveal a shining beacon transporting its wearer to a happier, sunnier place."
Quartz is once again a great choice to bring the bright yellow color into your wardrobe, and because it is slightly less expensive it is a great way to bring large statement pieces in without breaking the bank. 

LIMPET and ZIRCON: "A shade of aqua that leans toward the green family, Limpet Shell is clear, clean and defined. Suggestive of clarity and freshness, its crisp and modern influences evoke a deliberate, mindful tranquility."
Zircon occurs in a wide range of colors, but the beautiful aqua blue is a perfect match! To read more about this amazing stone click here.

limpet

LILAC GRAY and SPINEL: "As in most any season, the need for neutrals arises. Essentially a basic, the subtlety of the lilac undertone in, Lilac Gray, adds a distinctive edge to this classic gray shade."
Gray can easily be kind of a downer color if you let it, but grey tones gemstones are anything but boring. Spinel is a hard vitreous magnesium aluminium oxide that has been used as a gemstone for centuries. The beauty of spinel has even caused it to be mistaken for ruby and sapphire in the past. The lilac color is a beautiful way to accent this interesting neutral from Pantone. 

FIESTA and SPESSARTINE GARNET: "The high energy Fiesta is a harbinger of excitement, encouraging free-spirited exploration to unknown but welcoming locales. A strong and fiery, yellow-based red, the vivid Fiesta provides a stark contrast to the calming, softer nature of this season’s palette."
Spessartine garnet in a redish hue provides the perfect punch to match this vivid color from Pantone. The name "spessartine" comes from the Bavarian word, "Spessartine", meaning "forest", which is a mountain range in Germany where spessartine garnet deposits were found in the 1880s. Spessartine was not often seen in jewelry until deposits were discovered and mined Namibia and Mozambique in the 1990s.

ICED COFFEE and SMOKY QUARTZ: "A transitional color that will take us through the seasons, Iced Coffee manifests as another strong neutral for the season. With its natural earthy quality, the softness and subtlety of Iced Coffee creates a stable foundation when combined with the rest of this season’s palette."
There are a surprisingly large number of "brown" gemstones (I happen to be a huge fan of brown stones). I chose Smoky Quartz because I wanted to (again) choose something that is relatively less expensive because having the option to create large statement pieces is always nice. 

GREEN FLASH and TSAVORITE GARNET: "Green Flash calls on its wearer to explore, push the envelope and escape the mundane, radiating an openness that combines with the rest of the palette in unexpected but serendipitous ways. The popularity of this brilliant hue is representative of nature’s persistent influence even in urban environments, a trend continuing to inspire designers."
Tsavorite is one of the most impressive members of the Garnet family. Tsavorite/lite was named in honour of the Tsavo National Park and the Tsavo River which flows through it. The name was proposed by the former president of Tiffany & Co., Henry Platt, who had followed the developments of the gemstone from the very beginning. A beautiful and lush color for Spring!

Leave them wanting more

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Buccellati Gold Maple Leaf Clip-On EarringsFrom Luxury Bazaar has been sold

Buccellati Gold Maple Leaf Clip-On Earrings
From Luxury Bazaar has been sold

Every autumn the leaves put on a fashion show of their own, why not join them?

Tiffany & Co.

Tiffany & Co. Diamond Gold Maple Leaf BroochOFFERED BY JACOB'S DIAMOND & ESTATE JEWELRY

Tiffany & Co. Diamond Gold Maple Leaf Brooch
OFFERED BY JACOB'S DIAMOND & ESTATE JEWELRY

Tiffany & Co. Gold Leaf BroochOFFERED BY CHAS SCHWARTZ & SON

Tiffany & Co. Gold Leaf Brooch
OFFERED BY CHAS SCHWARTZ & SON

Tiffany & Co. old Aspen Leaf PinOFFERED BY BETTERIDGE

Tiffany & Co. old Aspen Leaf Pin
OFFERED BY BETTERIDGE

David Webb

David Webb Laurel Leaf Necklace Diamonds, platinum, and textured gold

David Webb Laurel Leaf Necklace Diamonds, platinum, and textured gold

David Webb Gold, Platinum and Diamond NecklaceSold by Doyle New York

David Webb Gold, Platinum and Diamond Necklace
Sold by Doyle New York

David Webb 18k Gold Double Leaf Drop EarclipsAvailable from Betteridge

David Webb 18k Gold Double Leaf Drop Earclips
Available from Betteridge

JAR

JAR Fig Leaf Earringsfrom David Precious Gems has been sold.

JAR Fig Leaf Earrings
from David Precious Gems has been sold.

A PAIR OF MOSS AGATE AND GOLD EAR PENDANTS, BY JAR Sold by Christies

A PAIR OF MOSS AGATE AND GOLD EAR PENDANTS, BY JAR Sold by Christies

PAIR OF GILT METAL 'GERANIUM ' EARCLIPS, JAR, PARIS

PAIR OF GILT METAL 'GERANIUM ' EARCLIPS, JAR, PARIS

Seaman Schepps

Seaman Schepps Citrine & Diamond Vine Leaf BraceletSold by Betterridge

Seaman Schepps Citrine & Diamond Vine Leaf Bracelet
Sold by Betterridge

Rosewood with Citrine and Pearl Leaf Brooches and EarringsBy Seaman Schepps

Rosewood with Citrine and Pearl Leaf Brooches and Earrings
By Seaman Schepps

SEAMAN SCHEPPS Citrine & Pearl Cluster Earrings with Diamond  Sold by Betteridge

SEAMAN SCHEPPS Citrine & Pearl Cluster Earrings with Diamond  
Sold by Betteridge

Buccellati

Bucellati, with their Roman roots, in my opinion, are the masters of leaf jewelry. Realistic, yet fashionable they have wonderful choices for brightening up any fall day. 

Buccellati Acorn and Leaf BraceletOFFERED BY ALICE KWARTLER ANTIQUES

Buccellati Acorn and Leaf Bracelet
OFFERED BY ALICE KWARTLER ANTIQUES

Buccellati Gold Maple Leaf Clip-On EarringsFrom Luxury Bazaar has been sold.

Buccellati Gold Maple Leaf Clip-On Earrings
From Luxury Bazaar has been sold.

Buccellati Mexican Opal Gold Leaf BroochOFFERED BY LANG ANTIQUES

Buccellati Mexican Opal Gold Leaf Brooch
OFFERED BY LANG ANTIQUES

Buccellati Gold Cuff BraceletOFFERED BY ALICE KWARTLER ANTIQUES

Buccellati Gold Cuff Bracelet
OFFERED BY ALICE KWARTLER ANTIQUES

The Ancient World: wreaths of gold

irca 2nd century BCE - 2nd century CE, Central Asia Courtesy of The Curators Eye

irca 2nd century BCE - 2nd century CE, Central Asia Courtesy of The Curators Eye

Golden oak wreath  from the Dardanelles  Fourth century BC

Golden oak wreath  from the Dardanelles  Fourth century BC

Wreaths worn as a crown are among the more recognizable symbols of ancient Greek and Roman civilizations. Awarded for various accomplishments, or simply as symbols of status and rank, wreaths might be made from the leaves of such plants as olive, ivy, oak, myrtle or laurel.

Meda’s wreath from the tomb of Philip II Gold, some 80 leaves and 112 flowers surviving, c. 310 BC

Meda’s wreath from the tomb of Philip II Gold, some 80 leaves and 112 flowers surviving, c. 310 BC

Wreaths of mixed foliage, particularly fashioned in precious metal, are also believed to have been made as funerary objects or as offerings at temples. (An example can be found in the museum at the Roman baths in Bath, England)

The conquests of Alexander the Great, and the later expansion of the Roman Empire resulted in the appearance of such items far beyond the boundaries of modern Greece and Italy. The Asian wreath depicted above is was reportedly recovered in modern day China, yet it bears a remarkable similarity to those of ancient Rome and Greece. This may be due to the fact that China is a region which saw tremendous cross-cultural contact exchange due to the trade routes of the famed Silk Road.

Star Wars Official Jewelry

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starwars2

It's Friday! And not just any ordinary Friday but Force Friday!
What does this mean to the jewelry world? Well Berlin-based designer Malaika Raiss has acquired a license from Lucas film to create a 20-piece themed collection under her MalaikaRaiss brand.
Described by the brand as “part fashion, part fine” it features famous characters and spacecrafts. Some of the designs will be in 18-karat yellow or rose gold and some with diamonds.
Two designs have been released: a Darth Vader pendant and a pair of Imperial Shuttle post earrings, both in yellow gold.
The launch is slated for November. 

Menswear Jewelry

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Cartier Art Deco Ruby Diamond Stick Pin available from Steven Fox Jewelry

Cartier Art Deco Ruby Diamond Stick Pin available from Steven Fox Jewelry

Signet I purchased for my Signifigant Other from Digby and Iona

Signet I purchased for my Signifigant Other from Digby and Iona

I have to say, I’ve been waiting for the trend of men's “brooches”/”pins” to come to the US! I love the look, just like I love pinky signets that seem to be everywhere these days!

The stylish and often vintage pieces that we saw (and I adored) added individuality and interest to otherwise seemingly identical tuxedos. It is a wonderful alternative to a boutonniere or even a pocket square.  
As my Significant Other calls them "metal flowers", have been a worn in Europe for some time now and it's nice to see the sparkle has finally crossed the pond. 

 

Signet rings have been around since ancient Mesopotamia. They were also used as seal rings to seal letters with the mark of the sender (in wax as a mark of authentication).
In modern times they have traditionally been worn on the left hand (and sometimes accompanied by a small wedding band). They are usually engraved with a family crest or initials. Today the are rarely used for sealing documents, but they have continued to be viewed as the “mark of the gentleman.”

Kathleen Marino M.A, G.G., AJP, NAJA

HPHT Treatment of Diamonds

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                                                      ©Suncrest Diamonds. Formerly brown diamonds now pink after H…

                                                      ©Suncrest Diamonds. Formerly brown diamonds now pink after HPHT treatment. 

The majority of the questions that I have had from clients over the years have been about diamonds. I have received emails, calls, personal appointment all asking the same “How do I buy a diamond, what am I looking for, where can I compromise?”
But, I think the questions that most stick with me are the ones regarding treatments. Most often I get a question like “The salesperson offered me a diamond and then slipped in the word HPHT/clarity enhancement/irradiation/CVD. I didn’t know what that was so I decided to wait.” I generally commended them on waiting, because being informed is the best course a consumer can follow!
Diamond treatments are perhaps the most confusing topic for consumers. Today I want to cover just one HPHT treatment. I am going to break it down by definition, impact on the industry and then what it means to you as the consumer. So without further ado let's dive in!

 ©Suncrest Diamonds The HPHT machine at the Suncrest facility in Provo, Utah

 ©Suncrest Diamonds The HPHT machine at the Suncrest facility in Provo, Utah

What is HPHT treatment?

Type IIa diamonds are the most chemically “pure” diamonds on earth containing few to know impurities. They make up approximately 1-2% of all diamonds and the majority are colorless. However as these diamonds are being pushed towards the surface of the earth they may pick up impurities that color the diamond, the most common color is brown.
HPHT is a permanent treatment used specifically on brown type IIa diamonds subjecting them to enormous amounts of pressure and heat replicating the natural forces that create diamonds. By doing so a near-colorless to colorless color may be achieved, as well as fancy colors such as yellow and green. Furthermore if radiation is combined with the process pink colored diamonds can also be produced.  

                                            © GIA

                                            © GIA


How has this affected the jewelry industry?

HPHT treatment of diamonds first went public in 1999 and it has been a source of anxiety in the gem industry ever since. This trepidation increased after GIA (which has included HPHT testing in their grading since about 2006) released a pivotal statement in 2010 revealing that they had been receiving large numbers of HPHT treated diamonds ranging from 3 to 20 carats in size. The mining industry has also seen a surge in the sales of type IIA brown diamonds with prices steadily escalating as buyers attempt to estimate gains from treatment. The most concerning area has become the increasing number of treated and CVD (lab created diamonds) melee stones (melee is a term to describe small diamonds that range from 0.18 carats down to 0.001 carats) being sold in parcels with natural diamonds. Their small size indicates an increased need for testing of smaller diamonds, as well as the necessity for non-laboratory testing becoming available and affordable for gemologists as an additional line of defense for the consumer. 

© The Practical Gemologist

© The Practical Gemologist


What is the overall opinion of the HPHT treated diamonds and what does this mean for you?

Consumers must be aware that sellers of these stones are required by law to inform them of this treatment as well as any other treatment performed on diamonds (and any other gemstones as well). On the side of the producers of this product they see no difference in the treated and the natural diamond. As mentioned it is a permanent treatment that mimics the natural forces that create a diamond in the earth, however the gemstone and jewelry industry views this quite differently.
Natural stones, those that exist without treatments of any kind have always fetched a higher premium. Why? The simple answer is rarity. HPHT treated stones are considered to null and void the rarity aspect.
There are a few major issues that face the consumer: first generally the price of HPHT treated diamonds is lower than untreated diamonds, however this may differ from dealer to dealer as there is currently little regulation. Second, when it comes to appraising HPHT treated diamonds this must be taken into account. Since the stone is no longer in it’s natural form and we have no way of knowing it’s previous form many appraisers will have to look the the market for comparables to provide an accurate insurance or fair market value. Larger stones 0.75 carat and up)  should be evaluated by a gemological laboratory to confirm that the stone has not been treated. Third, if the consumer is considering a diamond as an investment, or even as an heirloom they must realize that over time a natural untreated diamond will continue to hold and in my personal estimation will gain value over time the same way that natural colored stones have. 

The Take Away:

Overall I do not think that HPHT treatment is inherently bad. In fact in some cases it can make it possible for some consumers to find their dream colored diamond without the higher price tag. To sum up there are just a few simple things to keep in mind:

          © GIA A diamond before and after HPHT treatment. 

          © GIA A diamond before and after HPHT treatment. 

  • HPHT treated stones may not hold their value as well as natural diamonds over time.
  • Disclosure on the part of the seller is required by law. If there's any question you have the right to have the stone examined by a gemological laboratory like GIA.
  • HPHT treated stones frequently have a lesser selling point. This can work to your advantage as a bargaining tool. The savvy consumer could bargain their way to a sizable discount (possibly 20-35%). Think of it kind of like a car dealership and do not be afraid to ask or walk away if it isn’t what you want. (I’ll be writing more on what the guy behind the  counter doesn’t want you to know later!)
  • If you have questions ask an independent gemologist! Independent gemologists have  no ties to a jewelry stores and are not selling gemstones or jewelry. We are here to help advise you and educate you. 

- Kathleen Marino MA, GG (GIA Carlsbad), AJP, NAJA